Makeup Allergies

What are cosmetics? What is in makeup?
Cosmetics are substances applied to the skin (makeup and moisturizer), hair (conditioners), or nails (polish and lacquer) designed to enhance appearance. Cosmetics are defined by their lack of any biological effect. They are complex mixtures of perfumes, emulsifiers, pigments, and preservatives as well as a variety of inert materials. They also frequently contain an array of exotic botanical substances, essential oils, for which the manufacturer may ascribe some vague benefit. The FDA and the USDA are responsible for administering laws involving the safety and purity of cosmetics. Revenue of the U.S. cosmetics industry will be about $59 billion in 2014!
What causes cosmetics reactions?
Untoward reactions to cosmetics seem to be rare considering their extensive use. Documented allergic sensitivity is even rarer. This may be partly due to the fact that affected individuals may just stop using the offending product rather than complain about it to a professional. Cosmetics may irritate the skin directly (by far the most common type of reaction) or induce an immune-mediated allergic response. Usually irritation would occur the first time a cosmetic is applied, as opposed to an allergic reaction which would require repeated exposures. Some individuals have extremely sensitive skin that seems to be intolerant to most cosmetics.

Where do cosmetic skin reactions occur? What are symptoms and signs of a makeup allergy?
Since cosmetics are most commonly applied to the female face, this site is most commonly involved in cosmetic skin reactions and inflammatory dermatitis. The rash produced by such a reaction often appears as a scaling, itchy red area, an eczematous dermatitis, usually confined to the area where the cosmetic was applied. It is often very difficult to distinguish on the basis of appearance whether the reaction is allergic or irritant. Sometimes there may be a stinging sensation soon after the offending cosmetic is applied, or the reaction can be delayed for a day or two. Less commonly, reactions may appear as blackheads, folliculitis, hives, and darkened skin.

What is on the cosmetic label?
The ingredients in a cosmetic are required to be listed on the label in order of decreasing quantity. Any ingredient could potentially produce a reaction, but certain ingredients seem to be more likely to cause problems. The use of the terms hypoallergenic, pure, and natural on the label have very little scientific meaning and are essentially marketing jargon. Cosmetics that use the term organic must be manufactured according to certain USDA criteria that have little to do with consumer safety.

How can I be tested for a cosmetic sensitivity?
If a cosmetic is being considered a potential cause of a reaction, the patient can perform a "use" test over three or four days by repeatedly applying the substance to the same site on forearm skin. If a reaction appears, further types of allergy testing can be performed by a health-care professional to determine the precise identity of the cosmetic mixture that is responsible. One can then avoid the offending product as well as avoiding further exposure to the allergenic component in other cosmetic products.

What else could the rash be aside from a cosmetic rash?
There are a number of common skin diseases that are likely to be confused with cosmetic rashes. Perhaps the best way to distinguish these is to avoid using the particular cosmetic in question for two or three weeks. If the rash resolves and then recurs when the cosmetic is used again, it is reasonably likely that the problem is the cosmetic. If the rash persists, on the other hand, then it is probably due to a skin disease like seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, or some other problem.

What is the treatment for a makeup allergy?
Mild cosmetic reactions usually will resolve with no treatment as long as the offending product is avoided. More serious reactions often respond to 1% hydrocortisone cream that can be purchased without a prescription. If this fails, then it will be necessary to visit a physician for a stronger topical steroid.

What is the prognosis of a cosmetics allergy?If the source of a cosmetic reaction is an irritant chemical, then it seems likely that by avoiding that substance, if present in other products, would be prudent. A physician with expertise in this subject can help decide which ingredient on the label is likely to be a problem. If a reaction is due to an allergy to an ingredient that was documented by patch testing, then it is very important to avoid that particular ingredient by carefully perusing the cosmetic labels. Sometimes this can be challenging because certain additives may have a number of brand names.

Is it possible to prevent a cosmetics allergy?The best way to avoid a cosmetic reaction is to avoid cosmetics entirely. Since this is impractical, then using cosmetics with a minimal number of ingredients might be helpful. Some cosmetics may contain labeling using the terms unscented or fragrance-free. This distinction can be important because unscented products often contain fragrance chemicals that disguise odor whereas fragrance-free products are supposed to be devoid of fragrances entirely.